Building conditions
Raw ceiling, on which the floor is to be built must be completely dry. In new construction, therefore, a waiting period must at least be observed 6 better 10 weeks.
Of course, floor coverings are laid only after the walls have been plastered over. So that no moisture can penetrate into the wood from the fresh plaster, a 4-week waiting period should be applied after plastering.

Working preparations
The wood is stored in its foil packaging until it is built in a dry place. The plank packages should not stand, but they should be folded flat and even on wooden sleepers (roof slats, squares).
After cleaning the raw ceiling and reflecting the protruding remnants of the mortar on the ceilings in new buildings, the polyethylene foil is placed first over the entire floor area. The contacts of adjacent belts should coincide in width 30 cm. The foil should also be led onto the walls above the floor level.
In old buildings, where there is no building moisture, this working procedure can be omitted.
The squares are attached at right angles to the intended direction of the floor boards. Laying square timber along one wall begins, keeping a distance of a few centimeters from it. All other square timber are attached parallel to each other at the maximum side distance 50 cm. Squares should not touch the walls with their foreheads. To level the square timber, you need a spirit level and a leveling staff. It is also suitable for this 2 – 3 m aluminum batten or indeed, completely straight board. The leveling line is placed on the edges both in the longitudinal and transverse directions and sections of hardwood planks, e.g.. from construction timber.
Then, granular insulating material made of hot-swollen volcanic rocks is poured between the square timber. The above is done by pouring out of the bag, open on one side. The grained insulation material should not come into contact with the floor boards. The granular material is spread with the board section like this, so that it lies evenly approx. 1 cm below the top edge of the square timber.
Laying the floorboards begins with one of the side walls. The first board is placed with the groove against the wall, however, yes, so that there is a gap 1-2 cm. This board is nailed from above, in the immediate zone of the wall. One nail is always used per square saw. The initial board is also nailed with its groove.
The nail should be hammered with light hammer blows at the root of the projection diagonally down through the board.
To avoid damage to the floorboards, a countersink pin is used at the last hammer blows. The nail is driven lightly under the board surface, so that the next board can be easily added on.

In order for the floorboards to fit together with a tight gap, they are beaten with a hammer.
By using a piece of board as a mallet, damage to the floorboards is avoided.
If the floorboards are too short for the given floor, they must be joined inside the surface. Take heed of this, that the ends must always be supported by a square timber. Two ends are now in contact in the area of ​​this square timber. In order to avoid gaps, it is important to guide the cut very precisely. All touching ends must be trimmed anew. It is very advantageous to apply here “circular saws”, which can be borrowed from tool rentals.
This saw can make exactly rectangular and clean cuts.
Before preserving or waxing all of it, the still raw floor surface must be sanded.
The so-called. parquet grinder, which a DIY enthusiast usually does not have. In addition, some skill is required for this work activity. The sanding of the floor should therefore be entrusted to a specialist company. Since the floor has been thoroughly sanded, and the dust of the grinder is carefully removed, you can prime the floor with hardened oil. Undiluted or only slightly diluted oil is applied with a wide varnish brush on the floor surface.

By combining with oxygen, the oil in the rags can ignite if stored incorrectly. To avoid fire, keep oil-soaked rags in a closed box, metal container.
After the primer coat has dried and depending on the temperature after 1-2 a covering layer is applied within days. Only now does the floor acquire its color and a matt, silky shine. The paint roller can also be used for the last step.