Laying a wooden floor

For the construction of the substrate, on which the floor boards or finished parquet elements will be laid, two designs are possible.
On substrates that are already thermally and soundproofed, strong and flat (floating screeds, old floor structures) boards are arranged in three layers, glued together as the so-called. “boards of a house adapted to the urban environment” from pine or spruce (thickness 14 mm) -floating on a ribbed paper.
A substrate must be made first. For this purpose, chipboards are laid on dry screed insulation boards or floor joists with an insulating layer placed between them..

Floating laying on flat surfaces
When the substrate is completely dry and swept, brush- they are covered with polyethylene foil. This treatment is necessary on all raw concrete ceilings and concrete screeds. This prevents the formation of steam.
Then, the ribbed roofing felt is spread over the entire laying surface, roofing felt with cork pellets or felt, for better footfall sound insulation.
The ribbed or pelleted side of the cork is placed on the underside, the belts do not overlap each other, but are put together.
Now you can lay the boards. Pay attention to this when laying new boards on old wooden floors, that the new boards are placed across the old ones.
The first row of boards is placed with the groove side towards the wall and wooden wedges are placed between the wall and the boards, giving a distance from the wall 15 mm. Laying is done in “falling out” lengths.
For this purpose, place the remainder of the first row of boards as the starting piece of the second row. Take heed of this, that the contacts of the adjacent rows are shifted by at least 50 cm.
In the second row, gluing takes place on the floor drain. The board is placed precisely and pushed against the tight slot. An unbroken strip of this glue is applied to the groove of the board. When applying the glue, the board is held slightly diagonally, so that the glue flows to the lower lip of the groove. This avoids a flow of glue on the upper side when folding. However, if it did happen, the glue should be wiped off immediately with a slightly damp cloth (then wipe).

The boards are now placed on the projections of the previous row and first pressed by hand. A mallet and a hammer are used for precise joining – it becomes on the already laid plank surface and they will slightly beat themselves like this, so that the boards do not come apart. In order to be able to connect the contacts also on the side of the expansion joint, an iron drawing or other tool is used, can be used as a lever.
The planks of the last row must probably be sawn in width. A fox-ball or a carpenter's ball can be used here; however, it is easier to handle a hand-held circular saw with an adjustable side support or a hole saw.
The last row should be tightly connected and secured with small wooden wedges to be sure. All wedges must be removed after the adhesive has hardened.